Tunis

Tunisia's capital sits beside a lagoon on the Gulf of Tunis, and it's a city of contrasts. In a single day you can bargain in medieval souks, admire Roman mosaics, sip coffee on a French-era boulevard and watch the sunset over the Mediterranean from the cliffs of Sidi Bou Said.

The medina

The Medina of Tunis, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the best-preserved in North Africa, with hundreds of monuments, from palaces and mausoleums to madrasas and fountains. At its heart stands the Zitouna Mosque, whose courtyard non-Muslims can usually view from a designated area at set hours.

The souks radiate outward by trade, from perfumes and chechia caps to textiles and gold, and restored mansions such as Dar Ben Abdallah reveal the elegance of old merchant homes. Rooftop cafés look out over minarets and domes.

The Bardo and the new town

The Bardo National Museum, housed in a former palace of the beys, holds an exceptional collection of Roman mosaics, including a famous portrait of the poet Virgil; some galleries may be closed during ongoing renovations. Just outside the medina, Avenue Habib Bourguiba, lined with trees, cafés and the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul, anchors the French-built Ville Nouvelle.

Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and La Marsa

A short ride on the TGM light railway takes you to the northern suburbs. Carthage, founded by the Phoenicians and later rebuilt by Rome, is a UNESCO site whose ruins include the Antonine Baths, the Punic ports and Byrsa Hill. Sidi Bou Said, a village of whitewashed houses with blue doors and shutters, perches on a cliff above the sea, and La Marsa, near the end of the line, has a lively beach and seafront cafés. La Goulette, closer to the city, is known for its fish restaurants.

How we plan Tunis

We recommend two or three nights, staying in a restored medina house or a seaside hotel in Sidi Bou Said, La Marsa or Gammarth. Our Tunisia Coast & Sahara journey begins here before heading south toward Djerba and the desert.